Thursday morning we set off reasonably early and the drive wasn't as bad as expected with not much traffic and after some deliberation we ended up choosing to park at Gargrave instead of Settle or Hellifield. This start would mean that we would walk the Pennine Way for about 20 miles towards Horton in Ribblesdale. After getting boots and bags on we headed north along the P.W. which started off along a tarmac lane for a bout a mile until we had a stile into the fields where we we're greeted with very boggy ground.
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| The first stile. Beware muddy puddle below |
We strapped on the gaiters (which ended up being an essential bit of gear for the walk) and carried on along the fields which had large muddy puddles at every stile and kissing gate. We headed over Harrows hill before heading down to where the Pennine Way follows the River Aire. The stretch of path following the river to Airton and then Malham made was even wetter and boggier and despite trying to choose the best way through the boggy bits it didn't stop getting wet feet. We made it into Malham after about seven miles of boggy paths and we treated ourselves to a coffee and tea in the Buck Inn.
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| H and Malham Cove |
We pulled ourselves out of the pub and carried on and despite a short shower earlier it was sunny so we could appreciate Malham Cove more. After going upto the face of the limestone cliff we walked up the side to walk on the limestone pavement to rejoin the Pennine Way. We followed the P.W. to Malham Cove and experienced some more light showers but luckily they didn't last very long.
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| Malham Tarn |
We walked round Malham Tarn through the woods by Malham Tarn House and then towards Tennant Gill. After passing the farm at Tennant Gill the path started to ascend up our first hill of the walk. We followed the long trudge upto the top of Fountains Fell where the cloud obscured some of the view from the top, so we didn't stick around as the wind made it a cold place to be. As we started to descend the cloud started to clear and we could see our next target, Pen-Y-Ghent. We walked off the side of Fountains Fell and followed the tarmac lanealong the path which heads past Churn Mill Hole and then to the foot of Pen-Y-Ghent.
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| Pen-Y-Ghent from the side of Fountains Fell |
It was starting to get a bit darker, but we decided that we would walk to the top of Pen-Y-Ghent and then think about where we would sleep the night. We ascended and it didn't take long until we made it to the top, but we weren't rewarded with any views as the cloud had stuck to the top of the hill again. We took some photos and then made our way off the hill, looking for potential bivy spots along the way. But with the shortage of decent spots and the threat of rain n the night we decided to go with the luxury option and find somewhere to stay in Horton-in-Ribblesdale. It was getting very dark as we headed into Horton and we had to call upon our headtorches as we we're passed by a runner coming off Pen-Y-Ghent and three mountain bikers going for a nigh ride.
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| Brother and sister on Pen-Y-Ghent (694m) |
We ended up staying at the bunkhouse at The Golden Lion Inn in Horton-in-Ribblesdale, where we had a lovely dinner of Sausages in Yorkshire Pudding and a couple of beers/ciders. I have to admit it was very different from what we'd planned which was to bivy and eat cous cous and tuna, but you have to look after yourself sometimes.
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| Hayley eating breakfast flapjack. Horton and Pen-Y-Ghent behind |
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| Ingleborough |
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| Trow Gill |
We walked through the limestone Gorge known as Trow Gill and followed the path upto Ingleborough with a detour to have a look at Gaping Gill. We got ourselves as close to the hole as we dared so we could stare into the oblivion.
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| Gaping Gill |
After our detour we carried on up the path to Ingleborough. We walked up at a steady pace and had one stop as I received a work call from a client (as it was still a weekday after all) before getting to the top. We made it to the shelter at the top where we enjoyed a break from the winds and ate nuts and Eccles cake as a reward. There weren't any views from the top due to the cloud so we took photos at the trig point and headed off the hill.
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| Trig point on top of Ingleborough (724m) |
We walked down off Ingleborough and it started to rain as we we're coming down the steepist bit. I thought I would wait to be on a less steep gradient to put on my waterproof trousers but it was too late by that time and we both got very wet legs. We followed the path down and it took us past the maze of limestone pavements until we came to farmers fields and then to the road where we walked to the Old Hill Inn to have our first coffee/tea of the day, where we sat next to the fire to dry the wet bits.
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| Whernside |
In the pub we decided that despite the aches we would go up Whernside, so after finishing our beverages we left the warm pub and started walking up Philpin Lane and then up the path to the ridge of Whernside where we past more Three Peakers who all assume you are doing the same, but in a backwards order. We followed the ridge and after a few false summits, made it to the top of Whernside where we again stopped to eat and take photos before heading off the hill.
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| Whernside (736m) |
We followed the path north and then west off Whernside and it seemed to take a long time till we made it to the bridleway between Ribblehead and Dent. The aches slowed us down but followed the bridleway to Ribblehead where we sat in the pub with another coffee/tea while we waited for our train. Our train took us to Gargrave where we had a short walk back to the car which I was glad was still there.
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| Ribblehead viaduct with Whernside behind |
Trip Details
Day 1- 21.5 miles (3530ft ascent)
Day 2- 16.5 miles (3510ft ascent)
